StandardTeir 1
Lightning-fast, spell-fueled beatdown — when every cantrip is a combat trick, and every draw might just be lethal.
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Core Strategy & Game Plan
Izzet Prowess is a fast-paced, spell-slinging aggro deck that aims to overwhelm the opponent with cheap spells and prowess triggers. The primary win condition is simply reducing your opponent’s life total from 20 to 0 as quickly as possible with an army of pumped-up creatures. Every noncreature spell you cast buffs your threats (thanks to prowess and similar abilities), often turning small creatures into formidable attackers out of nowhere. You’ll be playing a flurry of low-cost instants and sorceries to buff your creatures, remove blockers, and draw more fuel. It’s like stoking a fire – once it’s roaring, the deck snowballs damage very quickly. By chaining spells in one turn, you can deal huge chunks of sudden damage that catch opponents off-guard. The deck’s mantra is “velocity” – you want to play efficiently and keep the pressure on before opponents can stabilize.
The Izzet Prowess playstyle rewards careful sequencing and knowing when to go all-in. You’ll typically win through combat damage by attacking with pumped creatures or a hasty swarm of tokens. There isn’t some hidden alternate win con or combo here – it’s honest (yet explosive) combat damage for the win. If you love the idea of top-decking a burn spell for lethal or watching your 1/2 Monastery Swiftspear suddenly swing as a 6/7, this deck will feel incredibly satisfying. Now let’s break down how you approach each phase of the game, and how to mulligan for those ideal spell-and-creature combinations.
Early Game
Turns 1-2 are all about laying the foundation and starting the beatdown. Ideally, you want to open with a one-drop creature like Monastery Swiftspear on turn one. A Swiftspear attacking on turn 2 can immediately put pressure, especially if you follow up with a cheap spell to pump it. Don’t be afraid to play a tapped land like Spirebluff Canal or Riverpyre Verge on turn 1 if you don’t have the one-drop; it’s usually better to fix your mana early than to hold up an Opt with nothing to trigger. On turn 2, you have a few options depending on your hand – drop another threat (like Drake Hatcher or a second creature) or start firing off spells to push damage through. Often the correct play is to deploy a second threat if you have one, especially Drake Hatcher whose prowess and future token-generation can dominate longer games. Establishing two creatures by turn 2 sets up bigger turns later once you start casting spells; each spell could buff both of your creatures’ prowess, effectively doubling the impact.
A typical strong early sequence might look like: Turn 1 Swiftspear (attack for 1), Turn 2 land, cast Sleight of Hand (prowess triggers), then cast Monstrous Rage on Swiftspear – suddenly your 1/2 haste monk is attacking as a 4/3 (or larger) with trample, and you’ve scryed/drawn from Sleight for next turn. That’s a lot of damage out of nowhere, and you’ve improved your hand quality too. Alternatively, if you played a Drake Hatcher on turn 2, you might hold your cheap spells until turn 3 so you can double-spell and start accumulating counters on Drake (thanks to its vigilance, it can even attack and still block next turn, which helps win races). Pressure is the name of the game in early turns – get your opponent on the back foot. Even just one creature pecking in for 2-3 damage early forces opponents to respond, which can make them play less efficiently.
One important decision in the early game is how to use your spells: sometimes you’ll want to throw a burn spell at a blocker versus at the opponent’s face. For example, Torch the Tower can either remove a small creature that’s stopping your attackers, or it can be saved to go face if no blockers are around. In the first couple of turns, removing a key opposing creature (like an enemy mana dork or an early blocker that outclasses your 1/1) is usually correct – it clears the way for your growing army to keep getting damage in. Cards like Into the Flood Maw can bounce an opponent’s early blocker back to hand, letting your team swing freely. If the path is clear, though, feel free to send those burn spells upstairs (at the opponent). The deck can present a lot of damage quickly, so every point counts. Overall, the early game plan is to stick a threat (or two) and start chipping away, leveraging your cheap spells to either buff your creatures or remove any obstacles that appear.

Mulligan Tip (Early Game Priorities): Aim for at least one creature in your opening hand. A hand full of only spells with no creatures to cast them on is often a mulligan – you want a threat that actually benefits from those spells. One-drops like Monastery Swiftspear or a two-drop like Drake Hatcher are ideal keeps. It’s usually fine to keep one creature plus a mix of spells and lands. If you have no creature by turn 2, the deck’s damage output drops drastically, so mulligan those creature-less sevens. Also, watch your land count – the deck runs 21 lands, which is a bit higher than some aggro decks because it wants to hit at least 3 lands consistently (to double-spell or use class levels later). A one-land hand is risky unless you have multiple one-drop cantrips to draw into more. Two lands plus action is a snap keep. Three lands is okay if you have good spells to cast; more than three lands in your opener is often too many (unless one is a utility land and the rest of hand is golden). Mulligan aggressively to ensure you have a fast start – this deck can recover from going to six or even five cards because cards like Stock Up and Opt help dig you out, and each spell effectively replaces itself with damage. A hand with Swiftspear + cheap spells is often better than a hand with 3 lands, no threats.
Mid Game
Once you hit turns 3-5, you should already have some damage dealt and a board presence – now your plan is to turn up the heat even more. The mid game is where Izzet Prowess really shines, often delivering the decisive blows. During this phase you’ll be looking to chain multiple spells in one turn to trigger prowess (and other abilities) repeatedly, creating huge swings. This is where Cori-Steel Cutter and Stormchaser’s Talent start to play a big role as well. Let’s talk about those:
Stormchaser’s Talent provides a different kind of mid-game boost. On its surface, for just {U} you get an enchantment Class that creates a 1/1 blue-red Otter token with prowess when it enters. So right away on turn 3 or so, Talent gives you another body to attack or block with. But as the game progresses, you can invest mana to “level up” this Class. At Level 2 (activated for 3U), Stormchaser’s Talent lets you return an instant or sorcery from your graveyard to your hand when it levels up. Think of this as a one-time flashback or regrowth effect – you can get back a key spell like a burn spell or a card draw spell to keep the chain going. At Level 3 (activated for 5U), things get really spicy: whenever you cast an instant or sorcery, you create another 1/1 prowess Otter token. In long games, hitting level 3 essentially turns every spell into a free creature (much like Cori-Steel Cutter’s effect, but now for every spell, not just the second one). While 5U is a lot of mana, in a drawn-out match you absolutely will take over the board if you reach this point – imagine casting an Opt and getting a free 1/1 prowess creature, which can then attack that same turn or next. In many games, you won’t need to go to level 3, but even level 2 can be impactful: getting back a spell (say a removal spell or a pump spell) can swing things in your favor and provide that extra bit of reach to close out the game.
During the mid game, your early creatures start hitting harder thanks to multiple prowess triggers. A Monastery Swiftspear or Drake Hatcher left unchecked by turn 4 might be attacking as a 4/5 or 5/6 after two spells are cast – that’s half your opponent’s life total in one swing! It’s important to calculate your damage and identify when you have lethal or can set up lethal next turn. For example, if you have two prowess creatures and a couple of burn spells in hand, consider if pointing them at the opponent’s face (and pumping your creatures) would end the game immediately. This deck often can present surprise lethals from seemingly low damage positions. A classic scenario: Opponent is at 8 life, you have a Swiftspear (1/2) and a Prowess token (1/1). Cast Opt (each creature gets +1/+1), cast Monstrous Rage targeting the token (token gets +2/+0 and a permanent +1/+1 from Monster Role, plus both creatures get another prowess bump). Suddenly Swiftspear is 3/4 and token is 5/3 trampling (1/1 base +1 role +2 prowess buffs, started 1/1) – that’s 8 damage swinging out of nowhere, even without counting Monstrous Rage’s immediate buff falling off later. Recognizing these burst damage combos is key to success. Sometimes the correct line is to go face with everything and trust your deck’s explosive potential to finish the job. Other times, if you suspect you can’t kill them this turn, you might hold a burn spell to use on a blocker at instant-speed on their turn (or to enable an extra prowess trigger defensively).
Removal timing in mid game is crucial. Since your spells can pump your creatures, using a spell like Abrade or Rebel Salvo to kill a blocker during combat can act as a combat trick – not only removing the blocker but also making your attackers larger before damage. For instance, attack with your team, and when your opponent declares blockers, cast Abrade to kill one blocker and buff your attackers’ prowess. That can turn an already favorable attack into a devastating one. Keep an eye out for opportunities to play at instant speed for surprise buffs. Cards like Into the Flood Maw can bounce a key blocker mid-combat (and if you promised the Fish gift, you could even bounce an enchantment or planeswalker that might be troublesome instead). The deck’s instant-speed interaction allows for flexible and often unexpected lines of play.
In summary, the mid game is where you overwhelm the opponent or set them up to be burned out. Use your life total as a resource – you’re the beatdown deck, so you usually don’t want to trade one-for-one or play defensively unless absolutely necessary. If you started strong, keep turning creatures sideways every turn. Leverage Cori-Steel Cutter and Stormchaser’s Talent if they’re in play – they will ensure you don’t run out of gas by continuously adding creatures and value. And if the opponent isn’t almost dead by the end of turn 5, you should be positioning yourself to finish the game shortly after, or pivot to a slightly longer game plan using your card advantage tools.

Late Game
Ideally, games won’t go super long – but we have to plan for the ones that do. In a late-game scenario (turn 6 and beyond), you’ll typically be facing opponents who have stabilized a bit: perhaps they answered your early threats, gained some life, or deployed bigger blockers that are harder to punch through. The good news is that Izzet Prowess has more reach and staying power than a typical all-in aggro deck, thanks to its draw spells and engines. In late game, your focus shifts to squeezing every extra point of damage out of your deck and leveraging any permanent advantages you’ve built.
If you have a Stormchaser’s Talent on board, reaching Level 3 becomes a top priority in very late stages. At six or more lands, don’t be afraid to invest mana to level it up (cast as a sorcery). Once it hits Level 3, each instant or sorcery is another creature – which can very quickly rebuild a board after sweepers or push through a stalled board state. Even level 2 (the spell recursion) might be what gets you the crucial burn spell from your graveyard to finish an opponent. Check your graveyard: is there a Monstrous Rage or a Torch the Tower you could use again? Grabbing it with Stormchaser’s Talent level-up might swing lethal. Late game, you’re less concerned with preserving resources for later – there might not be a later! So, it’s okay to spend 4 mana to level up if it immediately provides a benefit or sets up a win next turn.
By late game, Drake Hatcher (if alive) could have accumulated some incubation counters from hitting the opponent. If so, remember you can cash in 3 counters at any time to create a 2/2 flying Drake token. It’s usually best to do this at end of opponent’s turn (so you have the Drake ready to attack on your turn). Those Drakes provide evasion to close out a game, especially useful if ground combat is clogged. A fun trick: if you have multiple Drakes stored up, you can remove counters one batch at a time across turns to keep spawning a flying army. Don’t hesitate to swing Drake Hatcher into slightly larger creatures mid game to try to get some damage through – even 1 point of combat damage to a player gives it a counter (and with prowess triggers, Drake Hatcher often isn’t small for long). Late game, a single Drake Hatcher hit followed by spawning a 2/2 flyer might be the difference in pushing final damage. Vigilance on Drake Hatcher means it can attack without leaving you defenseless on blocks – which in a close race scenario is extremely valuable.
If the board is at a standstill, look to generate wide pressure. This could mean using Cori-Steel Cutter plus a couple of spells to spit out extra Monk tokens. Each token may seem small, but if you produce two or three of them, one spell can buff them all via prowess and suddenly a “go-wide” attack overwhelms a single big blocker. Also, by late game your hand might be low on spells. Cards like Stock Up are your lifesavers here: for 3 mana, Stock Up looks at the top five cards and lets you put two into your hand. This is basically drawing two best-of-five, which is fantastic when you’re digging for a finisher. Casting Stock Up triggers prowess on your creatures, possibly creating a token with Cori-Steel, and refills your hand to boot – talk about value! If you topdeck one in a stalemate, you often can find a needed burn spell or pump spell to break through. Opt and Sleight of Hand remain useful even late – they help filter into more action and trigger your creature buffs at instant speed. Don’t underestimate holding an Opt until the opponent’s end step just to see one more card and make a Monk token with Cori (if it’s your second spell of the turn). Small edges like that add up.

When you’re in a protracted game, consider if you need to pivot roles. Although usually you are the aggressor, sometimes against even faster decks you might have taken a more controlling stance and now the game has dragged on. If you find yourself low on life but with more cards or board presence, you might play more cautiously – e.g., keep a Spell Pierce or Disdainful Stroke up to stop a devastating late-game spell from the opponent (like a sweeper or big bomb). The sideboard plan often tailors to late-game play (as we’ll detail below), bringing in counterspells or higher-impact threats. In the main deck, Ral, Crackling Wit from the sideboard can be an example of a card that shines in slower scenarios – it’s a planeswalker that can ping damage and draw cards, giving you reach and advantage. We generally don’t include those slower cards main deck, but know that your sideboard can transform the deck to handle drawn-out battles.
To boil it down: late game Izzet Prowess still has game, mostly due to its engines (Stormchaser’s Talent, Cori-Steel Cutter) and card draw (Stock Up, Sleight, Opt). Use every resource to eke out damage – even a measly 1/1 token might poke in the last point or two. And always count your potential damage from hand + board before making decisions. It’s a great habit to, each turn, tally “If I attack with everything and cast all my spells, how much damage can I deal?” You’d be surprised how often the answer is lethal, even from what looks like a losing board state. The deck can truly play the role of the finisher in the late game, top-decking that critical spell to seal a victory. Nothing beats the thrill of ripping a burn spell off the top when your opponent is at 3 life and you’re both in topdeck mode – except, maybe, casting that burn spell and watching two or three prowess triggers stack up simultaneously for the win!
Mulligan Advice & Key Card Priorities
Mulligan decisions with Izzet Prowess can be tricky, but a few guidelines will help you make the right call:
Always look for a creature in your opener. The deck’s spells do very little by themselves; they shine in combination with creatures. An opening hand with 5 spells and 2 lands might seem okay, but if none of those spells actually produces a threat (like a token) and you have no creature, you’re likely in trouble. A hand with even a single Monastery Swiftspear or Drake Hatcher is usually keepable if the rest of the hand supports it.
Ideal hand composition: One or two creatures, at least two lands (with access to both colors), and some mix of cantrips/pump or removal. For example, Swiftspear + Swiftspear + Opt + Mountain + Island + Monstrous Rage is a fantastic six-card hand (tons of early pressure). On the other hand, 4 lands + Cori-Steel Cutter + Stock Up + Stormchaser’s Talent might be too slow despite having powerful cards – that hand doesn’t do anything meaningful until turn 3. Don’t be afraid to mulligan that to find a faster start.
Lands and colors: You need blue mana early for cantrips and class, and red mana early for creatures and removal. The mana base is pretty smooth, but be mindful: Riverpyre Verge won’t tap for colored mana on turn 1 (you need an Island or Mountain already in play to activate it). If your only land is Riverpyre Verge and the rest of hand is one-drops, that hand might stumble – consider a mulligan or hope to draw a basic. Generally, a one-land hand should have an Opt or Sleight of Hand to even consider keeping, and even then it’s risky on the play. The deck can operate on two lands for a while, but hitting the third land by turn 3-4 is important for double-spelling and using sideboard cards or class levels. So, a hand with one land + cantrips can be kept on the draw if you’re feeling lucky, but on the play I would aggressively ship one-landers unless they are godly (like 1 land, double Swiftspear, Opt, Opt, Monstrous Rage… even then, you miss a land drop and you’re sad).
Card synergies to look for: Having Monstrous Rage in your opener is great if you also have a creature to put it on – a turn 2 Rage on Swiftspear often forces a blowout amount of damage through. Cori-Steel Cutter in your opener is strong if you have at least two other cheap spells to cast by turn 3; if the rest of your hand is creatures and lands, Cori might be slow. Similarly, Stormchaser’s Talent is fine in an opener as your “spell,” since it replaces itself with a token on turn 2 or 3. Just be aware you typically want an actual creature alongside it to maximize pressure.
Against unknown opponents: Err on the side of an aggressive hand. A hand that goldfishes a turn-4 kill is usually going to be good against most decks. For example, two lands, Swiftspear, Opt, Monstrous Rage, Torch the Tower, Sleight – slam dunk keep, you have damage and a removal/cantrip to adapt. On the flip side, if you suspect you’re facing aggro, a hand with an Abrade or Torch the Tower might be worth keeping even if it’s a bit less explosive, because you’ll need removal to not fall behind. Mulligans are also easier knowing that a lot of our cards replace themselves (Opt/Sleight/Stock Up) – going to 6 isn’t devastating. In fact, a well-crafted six-card hand can easily outperform a mediocre seven.

In summary, mulligan for speed and a creature. This deck is at its best when it’s setting the tempo, not reacting. A hand that can play something on turn 1 and turn 2 is almost always a keeper. Don’t worry too much about having the perfect mix; as long as you have one threat and a way to trigger it, you’re in business. The beauty of Prowess is that even a suboptimal hand can suddenly become great with one timely draw or by chaining a couple of spells. Mulligan to the point where you have that baseline ability to enact your game plan. From there, trust the deck to do what it does best – explode with incremental advantages and bury the opponent in a flurry of spells!
Key Card Highlights
Monastery Swiftspear – This little monk is the deck’s MVP and most frequent turn-one play. A 1/2 creature for {R} with haste and prowess (Whenever you cast a noncreature spell, this creature gets +1/+1 until end of turn.), Swiftspear can start chipping in damage immediately and then scale up as the game goes on. Don’t be fooled by the humble stats – if you untap with Swiftspear and a fistful of spells, it can deal enormous damage. For example, turn 2 you might cast Opt and Monstrous Rage, suddenly attacking for 1 (base) +1 (prowess from Opt) +2 (Monstrous Rage buff) +1 (prowess from Rage) = 5 damage out of nowhere. Swiftspear puts the “prowess” in Izzet Prowess, often being a 3/4 or larger attacker every turn. Strategically, it’s your best opening and also a fine late topdeck since haste means it impacts the board the turn it’s played (even later on, you can play Swiftspear and immediately cast a spell or two to have it swing as a 3/4 right away). When you have multiple Swiftspears out, each spell triggers all of them – two Swiftspears plus two spells = both become 3/4s, which is terrifying for the opponent.
Full rules text: Haste; Prowess (Whenever you cast a noncreature spell, this creature gets +1/+1 until end of turn.) – simple and deadly. In gameplay, Monastery Swiftspear forces opponents to consider every single spell you might cast, because blocking it is a nightmare – they never know if you’ll suddenly pump it out of burn range. Many games are won on the back of an unchecked Swiftspear dealing incremental damage early, then delivering a final huge swing with pump spells. It’s also a great target for roles like the Monster Role from Monstrous Rage, since giving Swiftspear permanent +1/+1 (and trample) makes it an even bigger long-term threat. In short, always happy to see this gal in your hand – she’s the kind of card that makes you say “oh yeah, it’s go time” on turn one. Your opponent will quickly learn to fear the Swiftie!
Cori-Steel Cutter – This card is the secret sauce that turned Izzet Prowess from a good archetype into a great one in Standard. Cori-Steel Cutter is an artifact Equipment for {1}{R} with a very special ability: Flurry — “Whenever you cast your second spell each turn, create a 1/1 white Monk creature token with prowess. You may attach this Equipment to it.” That Monk token gains all the Equipment’s bonuses (+1/+1, trample, and haste) automatically! In other words, the first spell you cast in a turn might buff your existing creatures, but the second spell literally gives you a free creature to join the fray. And not some vanilla token either – a prowess token, meaning it will also get buffed by any further spells. The fact that Cori-Steel Cutter also gives that token haste and trample via the Equipment is absurdly good. It essentially reads: “Every turn you play two spells, you get a free attacking 2/2 trampling creature (at minimum).” In practice, this lets you flood the board without even using cards from your hand – you naturally want to cast multiple cheap spells in prowess decks, and Cori rewards you by refilling your board with Monks. Those tokens, being 1/1s with prowess, can quickly become huge if not dealt with.
For example, if you cast your second spell and get a Monk, then cast a third spell, that Monk is immediately a 2/2 (and any Swiftspears or Drakes also got pumped further). The equip cost of Cori-Steel Cutter is {1}{R}, but you rarely pay it – it auto-equips to the new tokens. You could equip it to another creature manually in slower scenarios (to give, say, a Drake token haste to block or attack), but generally you cast spells and let Cori do its thing. Note that Flurry cares about each turn – you can also make a Monk on the opponent’s turn if you cast two instants on their turn. It doesn’t happen often, but sometimes you might Opt and then Abrade on their turn, and surprise! Another Monk appears ready for your next turn assault. Beyond the raw power, Cori-Steel Cutter provides resilience: it keeps churning out threats even if your opponent spent removal on your early creatures. It’s a must-kill artifact for many opponents, but being an artifact means traditional creature removal doesn’t hit it. Many games see Cori stick on board and just take over – it feels a bit like having a mini-Young Pyromancer (from older formats) that makes better tokens. When playing with Cori, plan your turns to maximize it: try to sequence so you cast exactly two spells on a key turn to ensure you get that Monk. And remember, the second spell doesn’t have to be cheap – you could cast a 4-mana spell as your second spell and still get the token. But our deck is mostly cheap spells, so it triggers quite naturally. Full text excerpt: “Equipped creature gets +1/+1 and has trample and haste. Flurry — Whenever you cast your second spell each turn, create a 1/1 white Monk creature token with prowess. You may attach this Equipment to it.” Cori-Steel Cutter turns your spell-slinging into a one-card army. It’s absolutely a core card and often the difference-maker in grindy matchups. Plus, it’s just satisfying to say “I cast my second spell… trigger Cori, make a Monk” – it feels like you’re raining monks onto the battlefield, Jackie Chan style!
This can overwhelm opponents in a long game – each cantrip or removal spell is another creature joining the battle. Now, it’s important to note that paying 6 mana (total) to fully level this Class is a significant commitment, so it’s usually something you do when you have spare mana or in matchups that go longer (like vs control). However, even at Level 1, this enchantment gave you a free creature for 1 mana, which is extremely efficient. Often you’ll play Stormchaser’s Talent on turn 2 (maybe alongside another 1-drop spell) to get that token and start attacking or chump blocking as needed. The token having prowess means it synergizes like all your other creatures. A common line is to drop Stormchaser’s Talent early, get the token, and then later when you draw excess lands, level it up to grab a key spell back. Full relevant text: (Gain the next level as a sorcery to add its ability.) Level 1 — When Stormchaser’s Talent enters, create a 1/1 blue and red Otter creature token with prowess. Level 2 (3{U}): When this Class becomes level 2, return target instant or sorcery card from your graveyard to your hand. Level 3 (5{U}): Whenever you cast an instant or sorcery spell, create a 1/1 blue and red Otter creature token with prowess. In practical terms, Stormchaser’s Talent provides early board presence and late-game inevitability – a perfect fit for a deck that sometimes needs to play into turn 6-7. If one copy of this sticks on the board, you can play a more patient game, knowing that eventually you can flood the board with tokens and recursion. Also fun: If you have Stormchaser’s Talent and Cori-Steel Cutter out together, a second spell in a turn will trigger both – you’ll get a Monk and an Otter token, plus whatever the spells do. It’s a glorious shower of tokens! Many opponents will try to remove this enchantment, but few decks pack main-deck enchantment hate. That means against some strategies, Stormchaser’s Talent will quietly sit there generating value turn after turn, and your opponent will groan, “How many tokens can one card make?!” Answer: A lot.
Drake Hatcher – A new addition from the Foundations set, Drake Hatcher has quickly proven its worth as a core creature for Izzet Prowess. For {1}{U} you get a 1/3 Human Wizard with vigilance and prowess – already a solid rate. Vigilance means it can attack and still block, which helps in racing situations (we can swing with it and not worry about leaving ourselves defenseless). But Drake Hatcher’s special ability is what sets it apart: “Whenever this creature deals combat damage to a player, put that many incubation counters on it.” and then “Remove three incubation counters from this creature: Create a 2/2 blue Drake creature token with flying.” This effectively gives Drake Hatcher a mini-game: every time it hits the opponent, it starts to “hatch” a Drake. After dealing a total of 3 damage over time, it can cash in for a 2/2 flyer. Notably, the damage it deals is counted in counters, so hitting for 2 and then 1 (or 1 then 1 then 1) all accumulates. With prowess, Drake Hatcher can hit quite hard – imagine you pump it to a 4/5 one turn and get 4 counters in one swing, immediately hatching a Drake (you only needed 3 counters). That Drake token it creates has flying, giving the deck more evasive reach. Essentially, Drake Hatcher rewards you for connecting with the opponent by increasing your board presence.
Even if the Hatcher dies eventually, the Drakes it left behind stick around to keep pecking at the opponent’s life total from above. Having a few flying tokens can be crucial to finish games against decks that clog up the ground or make chump blockers. Also, don’t underestimate that 1/3 statline – it blocks opposing small creatures well, especially with vigilance letting it stay back on defense after attacking. It survives many common damage-based removal spells (like opposing Shock-style effects). It’s essentially our “value creature,” generating extra resources (in the form of tokens) over time. Strategic use: often you’ll prioritize buffing Drake Hatcher’s power when you can to speed up the Drake production. For instance, if you have a Monstrous Rage, putting it on Drake Hatcher not only makes it hit harder right now but might immediately yield enough counters to spawn a Drake. The vigilance on Hatcher also means you can attack, get counters, then post-combat activate the removal of counters to make a Drake, and still have Hatcher untapped to block if needed. Full text summary: Vigilance, prowess. Whenever Drake Hatcher deals combat damage to a player, put that many incubation counters on it. Remove three incubation counters from Drake Hatcher: Create a 2/2 blue Drake creature token with flying. This card embodies the deck’s ability to go wide – while your other creatures are getting taller (buffing in power), Drake Hatcher is multiplying your threats. Opponents often face a dilemma: kill the Hatcher or the presumably bigger threat like Swiftspear? If they leave Hatcher alone, it will take over a long game by flooding the skies with drake tokens. At 2 mana, it’s a steal for what it provides. In matches where removal is abundant, Hatcher ensures you’re still getting value even if it only sneaks in a hit or two. And if removal is scarce, Hatcher unchecked is often game over for the opponent. It’s kind of ironic that a deck called “Prowess” features a creature that literally sits there hatching eggs – but hey, all the better to unleash an aerial assault when the time is right!
(Honorable Mentions:) Slickshot Show-Off – a 2-mana 1/1 Bird Wizard with flying, haste, and “Whenever you cast a noncreature spell, ~ gets +2/+0 until end of turn.” This feathery showboat isn’t in the main deck of our current list (it’s chilling in the sideboard for certain matchups), but it’s worth mentioning. It basically functions as a pseudo-prowess creature that pumps +2 power (but no toughness boost) on spell casts. Flying and haste make it a threat that can start pressuring immediately and evade ground blockers. In some versions of the deck, Show-Off is main-deck to maximize threats. In our build, we bring it in from the sideboard when we need more aggressive flying pressure (or against foes that struggle to block fliers). Its Plot ability (you can pay {1}{R} while it’s in hand to exile it, then cast it later) is interesting for tempo, but usually we just cast it normally. Think of Slickshot Show-Off as the deck’s reserve air force – when called upon, it can deal a ton of damage out of nowhere (each spell making it +2 power means two spells turn it into a 5/1 for the turn!). It’s fragile at 1 toughness, but if opponents tapped out or lack removal, it will absolutely shred life totals. Another key card to mention is Monstrous Rage – our primary pump spell from Wilds of Eldraine. For {R} at instant speed, it gives a creature +2/+0 until end of turn and creates a Monster Role token attached to it (that Role token stays, giving the creature +1/+1 and trample permanently).
The result is effectively +3/+1 and trample on that turn (because +2/+0 plus the +1/+1 from the Role), and then the creature keeps +1/+1 and trample afterward. This spell often enables our biggest swings and helps our smaller creatures punch above their weight (trample means those prowess buffs won’t be chump-blocked effectively). It’s not a creature or permanent card, but it’s a key synergy piece that deserves the shout-out. Casting Monstrous Rage on a Monastery Swiftspear or Drake Hatcher often turns them into long-term monsters (pun intended). Plus, since it’s instant, you can use it as a combat trick to blow out blocks. While not every version of Izzet Prowess runs pump spells (some lean more on burn or counters), this version leverages Monstrous Rage to full effect – and you’ll feel pretty monstrous yourself when your 1/1 token suddenly smashes in as a 4/2 trample and survives as a beefier 2/2 for later!
n summary, the core cards above are the pillars of the deck’s strategy: fast efficient creatures (Swiftspear, Hatcher), spell-driven token/value engines (Cori-Steel Cutter, Stormchaser’s Talent), and cheap spells to tie it all together and trigger everything. Mastering how these pieces interact – like knowing when to hold a spell to get a Cori token vs. casting it immediately for damage, or when to level Stormchaser’s Talent vs. keep mana for a burn – will elevate your prowess (both figuratively and literally!). Each highlighted card brings a unique strength to the deck, and together they form a cohesive and lethal machine. And perhaps most importantly, they make the deck incredibly fun to play. You’ll often feel like a genius piecing together lethal from seemingly thin air – and these cards are the tools enabling that magic.
Matchups & Sideboarding Guide
Every deck has its strengths and weaknesses, and part of being a skilled Izzet Prowess pilot is knowing how to adjust your game plan (and deck configuration) depending on what you’re up against. Below, we’ll go through common matchups and archetype categories in the current Standard meta (as of May 2025), discuss how the games typically play out, and detail how to use the sideboard to improve your odds. The sideboard cards are chosen to address specific needs: counterspells for big late-game spells, specialized removal for certain colors, additional threats for grindy games, etc. After each matchup overview, you’ll find a suggested sideboard plan with Ins and Outs. Of course, you should always adjust based on what you actually see from your opponent (not every “Mono-Red” or “Control” deck is identical), but these guidelines will serve you well as a starting point. Let’s dive in!
Vs. Aggro (Mono-Red Aggro, Boros Aggro, etc.)
Overview: Against other aggressive decks, you often have to play the tempo role rather than pure aggro. This means you’ll leverage your cheap removal to contain their threats while still pressuring with your own creatures. A matchup like Mono-Red is usually a race – both decks are trying to deal 20 as quickly as possible. The key difference is that our creatures can outgrow theirs due to prowess. For instance, a Monastery Swiftspear can block and survive a 2/2 if you cast a spell to pump it. So one of your advantages is that your creatures, given the right support, can win combat against their creatures. However, you also have to respect their burn. Mono-Red will throw burn at your face and your creatures, so be mindful of cards like Play with Fire or Lightning Strike aimed at your key creatures. If you suspect they’re holding instant burn and you have a Monstrous Rage or an Opt in hand, you might hold those to respond and save a creature from dying to a burn spell (since a timely +1/+1 from prowess or +0/+1 from role could keep it alive). In this matchup, life totals shrink fast on both sides. Blocking becomes relevant: don’t shy away from trading a prowess token or even a Hasty Monk if it will save you significant life. Thanks to cards like Stormchaser’s Talent and Cori-Steel Cutter, you have the ability to create more creatures than a typical Mono-Red deck, which often has to rely purely on topdecking haste creatures or burn. If you stabilize the board with a higher life total, you’ll win – because then you can turn the corner and start attacking with pumped creatures and they can’t safely attack you. Vigilance on Drake Hatcher is clutch here, as it can swing and stay back on defense. Use Torch the Tower and Abrade smartly – kill their key creatures on sight (for example, if they play a Bloodthirsty Adversary or anything that could grow over time). If they have a one-drop 2/1, it’s often correct to Torch it immediately rather than take extra damage. Remember, you’re the one with card draw spells (Stock Up, etc.) and token generators – if the game goes a bit longer, that favors you. The biggest threat from the aggro opponent is usually getting burned out by direct damage after you’ve stabilized the board. So post-board we often bring in countermeasures for that.
Sideboarding vs Aggro: We add tools that help us survive or swing races, and trim some of the slower or more situational cards.
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In: 1 Torch the Tower (the extra copy from side gives more cheap removal), 1 Sunspine Lynx, 2 Spell Pierce (optional, if we expect burn spells or planeswalkers), 2 Lithomantic Barrage (if they are Boros or have white creatures – Barrage can’t hit players but it destroys any white or blue creature for just {R}). Possibly 3 Slickshot Show-Off if we expect ground stalls – Show-Off’s flying can go over blockers, but note it has 1 toughness which dies to a stiff breeze of burn, so use with caution.
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Out: 4 Stock Up (too slow; we can’t spend turn 3 not affecting the board in a fast aggro mirror), 1 Stormchaser’s Talent (one can be okay for token, but drawing multiple is slow), 1 Opt (we can shave a cantrip since games will be decided quickly by board state, not card quantity), 1 Spell Pierce (if they’re pure Mono-Red creatures, Pierce isn’t useful except against maybe burn – even then, Pierce loses utility as they’ll often have spare mana in longer sequences).
After boarding, you want every card to impact the board or life totals immediately. Sunspine Lynx deserves a mention: it’s a 4-mana 5/4 that prevents life gain and deals damage to each player equal to the number of nonbasic lands they control when it ETBs. We bring it in here primarily if we expect the opponent might gain life or if we want a heavy hitter that also pings them. Against pure Mono-Red, they usually don’t gain life (unless they have lifelink via Ramirez DePietro or something odd), but Lynx dealing, say, 2-3 damage to them on ETB (most aggro decks run a few nonbasics like Ramunap Ruins or dual lands) is a nice bonus. It’s also a chunky creature that dodges Shock-type removal. It does ding us too, so careful if you’re low on life. If you’re on the draw and fear you’ll be on the back foot, consider keeping an extra Opt or two for consistency and maybe drop a Monstrous Rage – Rage is amazing when you’re ahead (pushing damage through), but if you’re behind it doesn’t help you survive. So adjust if needed.
Gameplay Tips: In aggro mirrors, the person who has any form of card advantage often pulls ahead – and that’s you. Try to ensure you don’t run out of gas: sideboarded games with an extra removal or two mean you might hit turn 5 and each be low on resources. Stormchaser’s Talent at least gave you a token; if you kept one Stock Up in, that could refuel you massively at that point. Keep an eye on your life total – don’t get it so low that a topdeck Stoke the Flames or similar will kill you when you had the option to play a bit safer. Use Spell Pierce judiciously: countering a Lightning Strike that was going to kill your only blocker can be a game-saver, whereas countering a 1-drop creature on turn 1 is probably not worth it (unless your hand is all gas and you just want to tempo them out). One neat trick: Lithomantic Barrage is uncounterable and hits blue creatures too. If you’re facing something like a Simic tempo or Bant aggro (less common, but say they have some blue threat), Barrage will shine. Even if not, vs Boros aggro with white creatures (like Extraction Specialist or etc.), Barrage is 2 damage that can hit white planeswalkers as well, and cannot be countered. So it’s very reliable removal for those colors. Don’t bring it in if the opponent is straight Mono-Red (no white/blue), because it literally cannot target anything but white/blue.
Overall, against aggro, you’re favored if you can avoid an early flood of damage. The first few turns are the scariest – if you come out with a creature and a burn spell or two, you often will stabilize at a medium life total and then take over. Watch out for any late-game haymakers some aggro decks might have (for example, if a red deck sides in Chaos Defiler or something crazy at 5 mana – unlikely, but be aware). Most of the time, your plan is simply: trade off resources where needed to not die, then leverage your superior card quality to win. This is one matchup where playing first is huge, as getting that initial tempo can make all the difference. But even on the draw, play smart and you’ll often outlast the more all-in opponent.
Vs. Midrange (Black-based Midrange: Orzhov, Dimir, Jund, Four-Color Piles)
Overview: Midrange decks in Standard typically pack a mix of removal, creatures, and maybe planeswalkers or a big finisher. Examples include Orzhov or Dimir midrange with cards like Sheoldred, the Apocalypse, Denik/Rafine (if Esper legends style), or even Four-Color “good stuff” that plays a bit of everything (perhaps using Atraxa, Grand Unifier as a finisher). Against these decks, Izzet Prowess takes the role of aggressor, but you must navigate around their interaction. Black-based decks will have plenty of removal (think Cut Down, Go for the Throat, March of Wretched Sorrow, etc.) and lifegain is often a factor (Sheoldred drains you, Orzhov might run lifelink creatures or The Wandering Emperor gaining life). The good news is we have tools to combat those. Your early plan is to apply pressure and force them to have answers. If they stumble or keep a slow hand full of expensive spells, you can run them over before they deploy their big stuff. Key threats to watch: Sheoldred, the Apocalypse can undo our game plan if not addressed – she’ll punish us for drawing extra cards (ouch, Stock Up becomes painful) and a 4/5 deathtouch body is hard to attack through. If a Sheoldred hits the table, you ideally want to have a removal ready, like Rebel Salvo (5 damage gets rid of her, and Salvo even negates indestructible if they gave her that somehow) or Witchstalker Frenzy (in our earlier iteration, Witchstalker Frenzy was great at killing a big creature after we attacked, though our updated list uses other removal). Unable to Scream from the sideboard is another answer – enchanting Sheoldred to make her a harmless 0/2 toy. Outside of that specific card, midrange will try to two-for-one you with cards like Wedding Announcement or value creatures. You generally don’t want the game to go super long because eventually their card advantage engines (say Breach the Multiverse or Atraxa) will bury you. That said, you can certainly win a medium-length game thanks to Stormchaser’s Talent and Cori-Steel giving you ongoing value. This matchup often comes down to one pivotal turn: you line up an attack and represent lethal, and the midrange opponent has to decide how to block or if they have the right removal at instant speed. Our job is to make their life total a resource they can’t safely spend – basically, get them low enough that they start playing scared or have to make unfavorable plays. For instance, if you pressure them to ~8 life, they might not feel comfortable tapping out for a big sorcery like Invoke Despair, because they could just die to double Monstrous Rage + prowess triggers. Present the threat of lethal at all times once they’re in burn range, and you will gain a psychological edge. Post-board, we will bring in some countermagic to stop their sweepers or haymakers, as well as extra answers for lifegain and large blockers.
Sideboarding vs Midrange: We tailor our deck to answer their key threats and grind through removal.
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In: 2 Disdainful Stroke (absolutely crucial to counter big spells – hits anything with mana value 4 or more, e.g., Sheoldred, Invoke Despair, Atraxa, planeswalkers, etc.), 2 Ral, Crackling Wit (Ral gives us a resilient threat that can ping damage and draw cards; midrange decks often struggle to remove planeswalkers without losing tempo), 1 Rebel Salvo (efficient answer to big creatures and planeswalkers, affinity for Equipment can make it cost as little as {R} if Cori-Steel is out; it kills Sheoldred and others dead), 1 Unable to Scream (this is a spicy one-of that can nullify something like Sheoldred or any giant creature by turning it into a 0/2 “Toy” with no abilities – basically a blue Pacifism effect; great against anything we can’t easily burn off the board, including maybe an opposing Atraxa or Polukranos Reborn).
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Out: 3 Monstrous Rage (we trim some pump spells because midrange decks have a lot of instant removal; casting a pump only to get your creature killed in response is a feels-bad, and if they’re killing our stuff we need more actual cards, not temporary buffs. Keep 1-2 Rage in if you expect to need trample to get past tokens, but generally shaving a few is wise), 1 Opt (you can trim a cantrip since we’re bringing in more impactful spells; we still like some Opts to smooth draws, but we have extra draw via Ral now), 1 Torch the Tower (they tend to have fewer small creatures that need a cheap burn – e.g., Torch can’t kill Sheoldred without Bargain, and many midrange creatures have 3+ toughness. We keep some removal for early threats like Thalia or Dennick if in Esper, but a full set of Torches isn’t necessary), 1 Sleight of Hand (similar logic to Opt, you can trim a tad of the cantrip/draw density to make room for higher impact cards). If you suspect they’ll bring in graveyard hate or specific anti-spell cards, you could also consider boarding out a Stormchaser’s Talent (if they blow it up with enchantment removal often) but usually I leave them in because one token and the threat of level-up is enough value even if they remove it later.
After sideboarding, our deck becomes a bit more interactive and slightly less turbo-aggressive. The idea is, midrange will have answers – we bring counters to answer their answers or their bombs. Disdainful Stroke is a powerhouse here: it counters so many problematic cards (Invoke Despair, big creatures, Planeswalkers like The Eternal Wanderer or Teferi, etc.). Cast Stroke on the important stuff and let less important things slide. For example, counter a Sheoldred or a sweeper; you might let a minor 4-drop through if it’s not going to kill you (like if they cast a Wedding Announcement, maybe you let that resolve and plan to win before it takes over, saving Stroke for something scarier). Ral, Crackling Wit deserves a quick explanation: Ral is a planeswalker that costs {1}{U}{R} and comes in with loyalty. His plus ability is “Deal 1 damage to target player or planeswalker” (pinging face basically, which adds up and also can finish off a low-loyalty opposing planeswalker). His 0 ability lets you draw two cards, then discard a card at your next end step (delayed draw). And his -2 can copy the next spell you cast. In grindy games, Ral provides a source of direct damage (useful for closing games or pressuring opponents who stabilize at low life) and card advantage (drawing 2 then discarding 1 is effectively a +1 card advantage if you have a spare card to pitch). Opponents will be inclined to spend resources to remove Ral, which can take pressure off your life total and creatures. Bringing in Ral against midrange gives you a threat that dodges sorcery-speed creature removal – forcing them to perhaps divert a creature attack or use a spell like Hero’s Downfall on him instead of on your head. Always consider your opponent’s possible sideboard: many midrange decks might bring in lifegain or more removal (e.g., Sunset Revelry or Sanctuary Warden). We have Sunspine Lynx in our board mainly for lifegain-heavy or go-big strategies; Lynx stops life gain entirely while it’s out and pings for nonbasic lands. If you see multiple life gain effects (maybe Aetherborn Vampire, or Sheoldred is really their main kill), you can bring Lynx in as well to help race. Lynx is also decent as a curve-topper if games go long – a 5/4 that likely bolts each player for ~2 on entry. Use your judgment on that slot. It’s only a 1-of, so not a huge factor unless specifically needed.
Gameplay Tips: Against midrange, one of your main goals is to identify the threat you can’t beat and answer it. This means if your hand can’t currently answer a resolved Sheoldred or The Wandering Emperor, you may need to keep mana open to counter them or plan an all-out attack to kill that planeswalker the turn it comes down. Timing is key – often there’s a dance: do you extend more creatures into a possible sweeper (Depopulate, Extinction Event, etc.) or do you hold back? Generally, Izzet Prowess tries to kill before a sweeper can resolve, but if you suspect one on turn 4, you might hold an extra creature in hand and instead pump what you have on board to force them to have it. If they do wipe the board, you can then rebuild with the creature you held plus maybe Stormchaser’s Talent to start again. With sideboard counterspells, you get the luxury of saying “no” to the really scary cards. Make sure to leave the right mana up – e.g., turn 4 on the draw versus Orzhov, maybe don’t tap out for Stock Up; instead, hold up Disdainful Stroke to counter their Emperor or sweeper. It can feel weird to not use all your mana in an aggro deck, but that’s how sideboarded games sometimes go – you have to pivot roles a bit and respect their power plays. On the flip side, when you see an opening (opponent tapped low or appears to have few cards in hand), that’s when you turn the jets on. Deploy your threats, cast multiple spells to buff, and push as much damage as possible. Many midrange lists don’t gain life outside of Sheoldred or a few niche cards; if you can get them to ~5 life, your burn (Torch, Salvo, etc.) and pings from Ral can often finish things even if combat stalls. Watch out for lifegain specifically: Sheoldred’s triggers hurt – if she’s out, consider not casting draw spells until she’s dealt with (drawing extra will cost you life). If they cast something like Sunset Revelry (gain 4 life if you’re ahead, etc.), don’t panic – we can usually deal more damage than they can gain, but it might buy them an extra turn. Lynx from our sideboard nullifies that if you had it, but you won’t always. Instead, just recalibrate and maybe allocate one more attack or spell to cover that life gain.
Midrange games can be very satisfying to win because you often have to navigate a gauntlet of interaction. But remember, your deck is built to deliver haymakers of its own – sometimes in the form of a seemingly innocuous 1-drop becoming a 7-power monster. Use your engines (Cori, Stormchaser) if the game drags out; they will help ensure you don’t run out of gas and can go toe-to-toe in the late game. And if the opponent stumbles even a bit (like misses a land drop or keeps a slow hand), make them pay immediately with an all-out offensive. You have all the tools to dismantle midrange – speed, card advantage, and now counterplay via the sideboard. Just remember the golden rule: don’t overextend into their best cards. Force them to have it, but don’t give them a 3-for-1 if you can help it. If you play smart, this matchup is very winnable and often favored for Prowess, as many midrange decks have a clunkier mana base and you’re excellent at exploiting any stumble or life-loss from shock lands, etc.
Vs. Control/Combo (Jeskai Control, Esper Control, “Omniscience” Combo, etc.)
Overview: Control decks aim to answer every threat you present and win the game later with a big threat or combo. In Standard 2025, a typical control deck could be Jeskai (white-blue-red) control packing lots of sweepers (Depopulate, Farewell), counterspells, and card draw, finishing with maybe Hullbreaker Horror or Sanctuary Warden. Or Esper control doing similar with maybe a The Eternal Wanderer or Emeria’s Call. There’s also mention of “Omniscience Combo” – likely a deck that cheats out Omniscience (perhaps via Harness the Storm or some Genesis Ultimatum effect) and then casts big spells for free. Against all these, our game plan is full throttle aggression, with a side of disruption. You want to end the game before they can enact their late-game plans. The biggest threats from control to us are sweepers and life gain. A well-timed sweeper (wrath) on turn 4 or 5 can clear all our creatures and tokens in one go, resetting our progress. Life gain, like Peacekeeper Colossus or Revitalize, can put them out of burst range. We mitigate these by (1) not overextending into a sweeper if you have reason to believe they have it (like they passed with suspicious confidence and 4 mana open), and (2) bringing in counterspells to stop sweepers. Generally, versus control, I will deploy enough threats to keep pressure but try to hold one back if I strongly anticipate a wrath. For example, one creature + Stormchaser’s Talent token attacking might be enough – force them to sweep those, then drop your other creatures after. If you have Spell Pierce or Disdainful Stroke in hand, you can commit more to the board because you have a defense ready. Use Pierce early if it can nab a key removal spell or a Memory Deluge draw spell – its usefulness wanes as the game goes long and they have spare mana. Disdainful Stroke is your answer to their big finishers (and also hits sweepers usually since many wraths are 4 mana). Another key factor is playing around counterspells: control will try to counter your important spells. An advantage you have is many of your threats are one-drops or two-drops – you can often slip them under counter magic if you go first or by doubling up spells when they only have one counter available. Also, if the control deck taps out or shields down (say they cast a Big Score or something on their turn), that’s your window to pounce and deploy extra threats or cast Monstrous Rage for lethal. Keep an eye on their mana and open mana – anticipate cards like Dovin’s Veto or Make Disappear. If you suspect a counter and you have two similar spells, you might bait with one (cast an Opt to see if they counter that – if they do, great, then resolve Stormchaser’s Talent; if not, maybe they’re saving it for a creature, so you cast your creature first to draw the counter, then follow with a second threat). Another tip: Cori-Steel Cutter and Stormchaser’s Talent are surprisingly good vs control, because they are cheap permanents that produce threats without you overcommitting. Control might not have a clean answer to an artifact or enchantment game1 (some rely solely on counters or sweepers). If you resolve a Cori on turn 2, even if they counter your later spells, the second spell each turn will continue to make Monks – which is uncounterable once the trigger is on the stack. Similarly, Stormchaser’s Talent giving you an early token means a sweeper needs to account for that as well, and the Class will stick around possibly to level up later. So those pieces shine and thus I rarely side them out vs control; if anything I want to draw them.
Sideboarding vs Control/Combo: We bring in our countermagic and sustained threats, and remove our weakest interactive cards.
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In: 2 Disdainful Stroke (absolutely – stops their finishers like Omniscience, Hinata, planeswalkers, big card draw spells, etc.), 2 Spell Pierce (great early to fight counter wars or stop a turn-3 unexpected sweeper or Fable of the Mirror-Breaker, etc.), 2 Ral, Crackling Wit (provides an extra must-answer threat that doesn’t die to creature sweeps; Ral’s ping and card advantage can win long games), 1 Rebel Salvo (not as critical vs pure control, but if they have a finisher creature like an Hullbreaker Horror or Dream Trawler, you want a solid answer; Salvo also can smack a planeswalker down since it hits any target except face, useful for something like Teferi or Wandering Emperor after they minus).
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Out: 4 Torch the Tower (likely dead cards since control runs few to no creatures you care about in early game; if you suspect a creature-based control variant, you can leave one, but most of the time cut all copies), 1 Abrade (we keep maybe one Abrade in case they have Celestus or Reckoner Bankbuster artifacts; if you’ve seen zero artifact targets, you can remove Abrade too and maybe keep one Torch or a pump spell instead), 1 Monstrous Rage (shave a pump because while Rage is great for damage, against heavy removal/counter decks you often don’t get to stick it effectively – you don’t want to draw multiple when you need actual threats or counters; keep a couple for surprise kills though, especially if they rely on blockers like tokens that you can trample over). If you expect them to bring in creatures from sideboard (sometimes control brings in something like Serra Paragon or Lyra Dawnbringer to stabilize), you could consider keeping an Abrade or two Torches, but generally your strategy is to prevent those from resolving (counter them) or race them. Lithomantic Barrage could be considered vs heavy blue control because it’s uncounterable removal for a blue creature or planeswalker – however, many control decks have no creatures or their big wincon might be something like Hullbreaker Horror (which Barrage can kill since it’s blue). Actually, that’s a consideration: if you expect Hullbreaker, Barrage might be your only way to remove it aside from hoping to burn it out with multiple spells (Horror is 7/8, tough to burn down). Barrage does hit blue planeswalkers too, interestingly, but most walkers will be white or black in Esper. So consider 1 Barrage in if you specifically fear a blue creature. Otherwise, leave Barrage out against control.
After boarding, your deck is somewhat transformed: you’re still the beatdown, but you have a suite of counters to back up your aggression and protect your board from sweepers. The dynamic becomes a bit more of a chess match. You’ll often pass with 2 mana up representing Spell Pierce or to actually cast a Disdainful Stroke, rather than tap out recklessly. If the opponent is a combo deck like Omniscience, you must be the aggressor but also hold up a counter for the critical combo turn. If you know the combo goes off turn 5 (for example, using Discover the Impossible to find Omniscience and cast it), make sure by that turn you either have them nearly dead or you kept a counter ready to foil it. Thankfully, Stroke directly counters the card Omniscience itself, as well as any giant spell they’d cast off it, and Pierce can catch the enabler spell before it resolves. This matchup often is favorable because many combo decks are slower than pure control and don’t pack as much disruption for you – you can often goldfish kill them by turn 4 with a strong hand. Just don’t walk into a silly mistake like dumping your hand into a known sweeper and losing everything. It’s usually correct to hold one creature in reserve if you already have 2-3 threats out – there’s diminishing returns and you want something to rebuild with if disaster strikes.
Gameplay Tips: Patience and pressure – that’s the balance you need to strike. Against control, always ask yourself each turn: “If I play X, am I okay if they counter it or kill it? If I don’t play X, what am I holding it for?” Sometimes you should run out a threat to bait removal, so a more important card survives later. For instance, casting a modest Slickshot Show-Off (if you brought it in) to bait a counter, then resolving a Stormchaser’s Talent. Other times, if you have lethal next turn unless they have a sweeper, you might just do nothing and keep up Spell Pierce, essentially saying “I know exactly what beats me, and I’m ready for it.” The beauty of this deck is that many of your threats only cost 1 mana, which means you can double-spell easily to slip something through counters. Versus a control player with only one counter in hand, casting Monastery Swiftspear (they might let it resolve or feel they have to counter it if their life is low), then casting, say, a Drake Hatcher post-counter is a common way to stick a threat. Your spells are also cheap enough that you can fight counter wars by chaining two in a turn: e.g., you cast a crucial Monstrous Rage to push lethal, they try to counter it with Negate, you Spell Pierce their Negate – bam, game-ending damage goes through. Know your role: you must kill or severely cripple control before they fully stabilize (which usually means before they have 7+ lands and a full grip of cards from something like Silver Scrutiny). Once they’re at that stage, winning becomes very hard. So sideboarded cards like Ral and counters are there to ensure you can either stop them from stabilizing or steal wins late by incremental burn (Ral pings, maybe Stormchaser level 3 tokens, etc.). If you see them casting a lifegain spell like White Sun’s Twilight (XWW gain life and make tokens), that’s a Stroke target for sure – can’t allow them to undo your progress. Similarly, if a control deck plays The Wandering Emperor and tries to gain 2 life by exiling an attacking creature, you could respond with a Spell Pierce on Emperor or buff the creature with Monstrous Rage out of first-strike range (though usually Emperor exiling doesn’t care about buff except giving hexproof or something, which we don’t have). Usually you just counter her or accept the loss of one attacker and finish her off next turn by attacking. Think through your damage – control often stabilizes at low life. If you have them at, say, 6, and you have a couple burn spells or Ral in play, you might shift to “burn plan” and not even need to attack more (which could risk walking into a Settle the Wreckage type card). Each matchup nuance can be different: e.g., if facing a pure combo like a deck that doesn’t care about its life total at all and just wants to pull off a certain sequence (maybe a self-mill combo or a Mindsplicer Apparatus big turn), you can ignore their board and throw everything face to race the clock. Those matchups are usually favorable because you goldfish so quickly and you have a bit of interaction (our counters) to throw a wrench in their plan.
In conclusion, control and combo matchups require you to play smart aggressive. Leverage your cheap threats, force them to have answers, and use your sideboard counters to ensure that their one “answer everything” card doesn’t resolve. Many control players will find themselves dying with a handful of cards because you applied relentless pressure and countered their one sweeper – that’s the dream scenario for us. It’s satisfying to see an opponent tap out for what they think is a game-saving play (like casting Shatter the Sky) only to have you Disdainful Stroke it and then untap and win. These matchups can be slightly unfavored pre-board if they draw all the right answers, but heavily in your favor post-board when you can proactively disrupt them. Keep calm, pick your spots, and remember – even control mages have to respect the prowess!
Vs. The Mirror and Other Tempo (Izzet Prowess mirror, Jeskai Prowess, Dimir/Simic Tempo)
Overview: Finally, we come to mirror matches or similar tempo-based strategies. An Izzet Prowess mirror is often a wild, swingy affair. Both players have cheap creatures, lots of spells that can either go face or remove creatures, and some card draw. These games can be very skill-testing, as one key sequence can decide the outcome. Early on, getting a creature to stick is crucial. If you have a Swiftspear and your opponent doesn’t, you’re likely ahead – so they might spend a removal to even it out. Conversely, you’ll want to kill their early threat while protecting yours if possible. The life totals in mirrors can melt extremely fast once one player gains an upper hand on board. Thus, removal tends to fly freely – don’t hold back removal spells for a “later” that might not come. If your opponent goes Swiftspear into Drake Hatcher, and you have a Torch the Tower in hand, use it. The trick is using removal at the most opportune time: maybe you wait for them to cast a spell targeting their creature, then kill it in response (denying their spell a target and a prowess trigger). That kind of heads-up play can create a 2-for-1 swing. Sideboarding in mirrors often involves adding a bit more removal and possibly some tech cards that break parity. In our case, we have access to Witchstalker Frenzy (in older list) and Unable to Scream as unusual removals, but the updated sideboard is more tuned to control and midrange. The mirror could see Lithomantic Barrage come in if the opposing creatures are blue or white (in our deck, the creatures are mostly red (Swiftspear) and blue (Drake), so Barrage can hit Drake Hatcher for example, or a Stormchaser’s Talent Otter since those are blue tokens). Uncounterable removal is nice if you expect them to bring in Spell Pierce. Sunspine Lynx could also be a curve-top threat to break a stalemate (they likely bring you low as well, so casting Lynx to hit both players might be dangerous unless you’re ahead). If the mirror is more about speed, Lynx might be too slow at 4 mana. Slickshot Show-Off might shine here, because flying can ignore ground stalls and both decks typically lack flying blockers (outside of Drake tokens). So, bring in Show-Offs to win air battles or force them to use removal on it while your other threats survive. Counterspells like Disdainful Stroke aren’t very useful here (mirror has few 4+ mana spells except maybe Stormchaser level up, which Stroke doesn’t hit anyway because level up isn’t cast). Spell Pierce can occasionally tag a key burn spell or protect a creature, but often this matchup is decided by board presence and instant-speed interactions rather than long stack battles. So I’d focus on efficient damage and removal.
Sideboarding vs Mirror/Tempo: Make your deck as lean and interactive as possible.
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In: 1 Torch the Tower (extra cheap removal), 3 Slickshot Show-Off (pressure with evasion, can steal wins), 1 Unable to Scream (this is a quirky include, but if the opponent has something like a giant buffed creature you can’t kill with damage – say a 6/6 prowess token, Scream can neuter it. It’s narrow but can serve as a surprise answer), 2 Spell Pierce (to win counter wars over key removal spells or stop a Stock Up, etc., if they run it).
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Out: 4 Stock Up (far too slow in mirror; tapping 3 mana sorcery to draw cards will often get you killed next turn by an opponent’s all-in swing), 1 Stormchaser’s Talent (having one is fine for token and potential grind, but multiples are slow – you could shave one), 1 Opt (we can trim a tiny bit of draw for more direct answers), 1 Monstrous Rage (leave some for combat tricks, but if you suspect they bring more removal, a slight trim is okay). If the opponent’s list doesn’t run any big creatures and is very low curve, you could also drop Disdainful Stroke entirely (we likely wouldn’t board it in anyway, but if it was main for some reason, it’s not useful here). Mirror matches can vary based on each player’s 75; adjust these suggestions if your opponent’s build is different (for example, if they are heavier blue with more spells and fewer creatures, you might actually bring in Spell Pierces heavily and consider keeping an extra draw spell while reducing removal, since you can’t kill what they don’t have).
After boarding, both of you have more removal likely, so creatures have an even shorter life expectancy. This means you may need to be more cautious about when to cast pump spells – casting Monstrous Rage into open mana when they have a removal could lead to a blowout. Try to either bait removal first or pump when they’re tapped out or when you have a backup plan (like two threats, so losing one isn’t game over). Keep in mind Cori-Steel Cutter and Stormchaser’s Talent are legendary-ish engines in mirror: if one player resolves these and the other doesn’t, it can snowball advantage. If your opponent lands a Cori and starts making Monk tokens, you might need to focus on killing the original creatures and then find a window to kill the Equipment (Abrade it if you have to) or just outrace the tokens. If both players have Cori, things get very spicy and board states get wide, fast. That’s where a flying threat like Show-Off or a single giant creature via pumps can break through. Or Sunspine Lynx dropping and pinging each of those token-heavy players for like 5 (because both likely have many nonbasics out) – it could actually be hilarious as a mirror-breaker if timed right. Though hurting yourself too means you better be sure it ends in your favor quickly.
Gameplay Tips: In mirrors, tempo is king. That means mana efficiency and sequencing decide who comes out ahead. For example, if you spend 2 mana to kill their 1-drop, and on their turn they spend 2 mana to kill your 1-drop, that’s kind of even – but if you manage to kill their 1-drop with a 1-mana spell (Torch) and then deploy another threat with the freed mana, you’ve pulled ahead. Look for those small edges. Also, consider life total management: sometimes you might take a hit from their creature in order to keep mana up for a bigger swing-back. If you have a hand that can crack back for lethal, you might not trade off creatures – let them hit you, because you’ll hit harder on your turn. Other times, an early trade can be correct if your hand is more controlling (like, you have 3 removal spells and one creature – you might play a slower game and kill everything they play). There’s a neat interaction: if both players have a Stormchaser’s Talent class on board, tokens will fly around and it might become a token standoff. In those cases, leveling up to 2 can be big – getting a spell back might tip the scales (maybe you get back a burn spell to kill one more token and push damage). And if anyone hits level 3, all bets are off – that person likely floods the board. But hitting level 3 in a mirror is rare because games usually end before someone has 6 mana to spare. Keep Spell Pierce at the ready if you suspect a crucial Witchstalker Frenzy or Reckless Charge-type blowout from them. Mirror often comes down to one player trying a big all-in (cast multiple spells to make a huge attacker) and the other having a response (a removal or bounce). If you’re the one going for it, try to do so when they’re tapped low or when you’ve seen their hand (maybe via a Gitaxian Probe effect – though none in Standard, just hypothetical). If you’re on defense, keep mana open at critical junctures and don’t fire off removal prematurely unless you’re sure it’s needed. For example, if they have a Swiftspear 1/2 attacking and you have Abrade, you might consider not abrading in beginning of combat – perhaps they will cast a spell to pump it and you can respond, or maybe they won’t and you take 1, which is fine, then kill it end of turn (playing around a pump that might save it). It’s a cat-and-mouse mind game.
The mirror/tempo matchups are usually about 50/50 – skill and sometimes a bit of luck (who draws more threats vs removal) dictates it. The best way to gain an edge is to understand the deck inside out (which, if you’ve read this far, you certainly do!) and maybe have a surprise or two post-board. A single Unable to Scream or Sunspine Lynx that the opponent isn’t expecting can swing things drastically. Imagine they pump a creature huge and you just enchant it into a harmless 0/2 – that could win the game on the spot. Just be careful not to get blown out by the same tactics; try to sniff out if they have similar tricks. If an opponent leaves 4 mana open after attacks, you might guess a Witchstalker Frenzy (costs 4 but possibly less if they attacked with multiple creatures). Don’t fall into traps – you can always choose not to buff a creature if you suspect removal, etc. At the end of the day, these matches are a blast because both players get to do powerful things. Win or lose, you’ll likely witness some crazy stack interactions and creatures growing +5/+5 in an instant. Embrace the chaos and may the most Pog-worthy prowess plays win!
Upgrade Paths / Budget Alternatives
One of the great things about Izzet Prowess is that it’s relatively affordable as competitive decks go – it’s mostly built from commons/uncommons and a few key rares. But we understand that some cards might be out of reach for budget players, or maybe you’re missing a few pieces and want to know substitutes. Conversely, if you have a bigger budget or want to bling the deck out with even more power, we’ll discuss “upgrades” or variations that can take the deck to the next level. This section will cover both budget-friendly swaps and some high-impact upgrades if you’re willing to invest a bit more.
Budget Alternatives
If you’re looking to trim the deck’s cost, focus on replacing the most expensive cards with cheaper counterparts that fulfill similar roles. As of May 2025, the priciest cards in the list tend to be the rare lands and a couple of mythic rares like Cori-Steel Cutter (yes, ironically an uncommon-looking Equipment is a chase rare in Standard right now!). Here are some budget considerations:
Mana Base: The current mana base uses playsets of rare dual lands (Spirebluff Canal, Riverpyre Verge, Shivan Reef). To save money, you can substitute more basics or less expensive duals. For example, Stormcarved Coast (the Blue-Red “slow land” from Innistrad) is often cheaper than Spirebluff Canal and provides similar function (enters untapped mid-game). You could run 4 Coast instead of 4 Riverpyre Verge, for instance. Additionally, Swiftwater Cliffs (the common land that enters tapped and gains 1 life) is a serviceable budget land – gaining 1 life isn’t irrelevant either in races. You don’t want too many tapped lands, but a couple won’t hurt terribly if it fixes your colors on a budget. Another option: Painlands like Shivan Reef are already relatively cheap, but if not, you could use Volatile Fjord (a Snow dual that counts as Island+Mountain but enters tapped) – it’s fetchable with anything that looks for basic types (not relevant in this deck, but it is an Island/Mountain for Riverpyre’s condition, interestingly). Overall, aim for ~12 blue sources and ~12 red sources minimum. If you replace expensive duals with basics, just be mindful to keep enough of both colors. Playing extra Islands and Mountains costs nothing (except slightly more variance in drawing the right color).

Cori-Steel Cutter: This is a unique card and central to the deck’s power, but suppose it’s out of budget (it spiked in price as a multi-format star). What could fill its shoes? The closest budget replacement for generating tokens might be Third Path Iconoclast. Iconoclast (from The Brothers’ War, uncommon) is a 2-mana creature (Blue-Red 1/2) that says “Whenever you cast a noncreature spell, create a 1/1 colorless Soldier artifact creature token.” Sound familiar? It’s like a creature version of what Cori does, though without automatically granting haste/trample or +1/+1. Iconoclast’s tokens don’t have prowess either. But it does consistently create tokens for every spell, not just the second, so there’s a tradeoff. The downside is you need both blue and red mana to cast it, which can be a tad harder on budget mana. Still, it’s likely your best bet if you can’t play Cori-Steel Cutter. Another option some budget builds use is Saheeli, Sublime Artificer – a 3-mana planeswalker (hybrid UR mana) that also makes 1/1 Servo tokens whenever you cast noncreature spells. Saheeli’s a bit slow and was from War of the Spark (not Standard-legal unless reprinted in something like Foundations?), so maybe not legal depending on format (check Standard legality on that – she might not be Standard legal right now, likely not). If not, Iconoclast is your go-to. The deck’s power will dip a bit without Cori’s haste-equipped tokens, but you can compensate by playing aggressively with what tokens you do get.
Stormchaser’s Talent: If this rare enchantment is a budget concern, there isn’t an exact replica – but you could try other card-advantage engines. A budget option could be Of One Mind (a sorcery that can draw 2 cards for {U} if you have a human and non-human – note: Swiftspear is a Human Monk, Drake Hatcher is Human, but tokens from Cori are Monks (human?) and Otters are beasts, so often you’ll have human + non-human, making Of One Mind cost 1. It’s not a permanent engine but a one-shot draw that’s very cheap). Or simply run an extra Stock Up in its place (Stock Up is uncommon, not too pricey). Another angle: include an extra creature threat instead, like a 3rd copy of Slickshot Show-Off main deck or a Bloodthirsty Adversary. Bloodthirsty Adversary (from MID) is a great budget(ish) creature that doubles as late-game value: it’s a 2/2 haste for 2, and you can pay {2}{R} extra any number of times to exile instants/sorceries from grave and cast them (one per time). So for 5 mana total, it becomes a 3/3 haste that flashes back one of your spells (say, recast a Monstrous Rage or Opt); for 7 mana, flash back two spells, etc. Adversary might not be super cheap (it’s a rare, a few dollars maybe), but if you have them or can trade for them, it’s a strong inclusion in grindy matches and gives you some of the recursion Stormchaser’s Talent provided. It doesn’t give you tokens, but a scaled-up Adversary is itself a big threat. If you’re going real budget, you might skip fancy card advantage and just load up on another cheap burn or pump spell in the Stormchaser slot, aiming to kill faster rather than out-value. For example, Light Up the Stage (if still legal via reprint) could be a draw spell alternative – Spectacle cost {R} to exile 2 cards for next turn, though that was rotated unless reprinted in Foundations. If not, maybe Treasure Cruise if that’s legal in Standard via some injection (likely not). So yeah, likely stick to extra threats or Of One Mind.
Lands that hurt (like painlands) vs. basics: On a tight budget, running more basics is fine – the deck is only two colors and many spells are single-colored in cost. You might run into slightly more awkward draws but overall it won’t break the bank or the deck’s functionality. If you do run basics heavily, note that Riverpyre Verge becomes weaker (since it needs an Island or Mountain in play to activate for colored). If you cut Riverpyres for cheaper options, maybe include an extra basic or two to maintain 20-21 lands. The fastlands (Spirebluff) and slowlands (Stormcarved) might be mid-price – if you have them use them; if not, it’s workable without. Also, Training Center (from Commander, red-blue “if 2 or more opponents, enters untapped”) won’t help in 1v1 Standard, so skip that. Cheap duals from recent sets like [c]Volcanic Spire">Wilds of Eldraine]’s common dual (comes in tapped, scry 1) – oh yes, [c]Volcanic Spire from Wilds is a common ETB tapped land that scrys 1. Scry 1 is actually pretty nice for smoothing draws. That could be a solid budget include, running 2-4 of those.
Other Creatures: Let’s say you don’t have Drake Hatcher (maybe you’re playing on Arena and it’s not available if Foundations wasn’t on Arena?). You’d need a replacement 2-drop creature. Some ideas: Ledger Shredder (if you happen to have it – from Streets of New Capenna, rare, known powerhouse in older formats). Ledger Shredder isn’t cheap money-wise but if you own them, it’s strong – a 1/3 flyer for 2 that connives (draw/discard + grows) whenever players cast their second spell each turn. It triggers off you or opponent double-spelling, which in this deck you do all the time (Flurry same condition actually!). It doesn’t have prowess but it can grow to a huge flyer and filters cards. It could slot in place of Drake though you lose vigilance and token spawning, but gain a flyer that can become 3/5 etc. If Shredder is too expensive or not legal (it is legal in Standard until at least rotation due to extension I think?), an uncommon could be Sprite Dragon (from Ikoria, a 1/1 Flying haste that gets a +1/+1 counter whenever you cast a noncreature spell). Sprite Dragon was a staple in older Prowess builds – it permanently grows rather than temporarily like prowess, and it has evasion. It’s fantastic, frankly. However, it’s only Standard legal if reprinted or included via some anthology (it was in Historic on Arena but not sure about Standard). If you can play it, definitely consider it as an alternative threat. It’s usually cheap to acquire too. If none of those are options, you could use Electrostatic Infantry (from Dominaria United, a 1R 1/2 dwarf with trample that gets a +1/+1 counter whenever you cast an instant/sorcery). It’s similar to Sprite Dragon but on ground with trample. It doesn’t start with haste, but it grows permanently like Sprite does. Some early versions of Prowess in Standard used it. It’s common or uncommon (cheap). It could fill the 2-drop slot decently if Drake Hatcher isn’t available.
Pump/Removal spells: Luckily, our instants/sorceries are mostly budget already. Monstrous Rage (uncommon) might be a bit in demand since it’s strong, but it’s not a mythic or anything. If you needed a replacement pump, something like Infuriate ( +3/+2 for R) or Tamiyo’s Safekeeping (G, but we’re not green here, just an example of protective spell). But I’d stick to red pump – maybe Reckless Charge (if somehow in format – gives +3/+0 and haste with flashback) but that’s older. Or Surge of Strength style cards. Honestly, Monstrous Rage is unique with that role creation. If budget, just play the full 4 Rage if you have them, or even add a 4th if you were running 3, since they end games. Torch the Tower and Opt are commons – easy. Stock Up is uncommon but should be inexpensive (unless it spiked due to competitive play – even then, maybe a dollar or two). If you absolutely needed a budget draw alternative, there’s Inspiration (4 mana draw2) – no thanks – or Consider (like Opt, but if not available, any cheap cantrip). Or simply increase threat density rather than draw if you had to.
In summary, a budget build might look like:
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Creatures: 4 Swiftspear, 4 Electrostatic Infantry (budget Drake replacement), 2-3 Iconoclast (budget Cori replacement), 2 Sprite Dragon (if you have or none if not), maybe 2 Bloodthirsty Adversary if affordable or more Infantry.
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No Cori, no Stormchaser: instead maybe +1 Iconoclast, +1 land or +1 Of One Mind.
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Lands: more basics, 4 Swiftwater Cliffs, 4 Stormcarved Coast (if you can, they might be a few bucks each but still cheaper than Spirebluff maybe), rest basics.
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The deck will be a bit more straightforward burn/beatdown without Cori/Talent engines, but still functions as a prowess deck.
Even on a tight budget, the core concept of “play cheap creatures and sling spells” remains strong. You might goldfish a turn 5 kill instead of turn 4, but you’ll still be competitive at your local store or on ladder in Arena Bo1. And as you acquire the key rares over time, you can slot them in one by one.
Upgrade Paths (More Power!)
Suppose you’ve got some extra wildcards or cash and you want to level up the deck beyond the base 75. What high-impact additions or changes can be made? Here are some thoughts:

Splashing a Third Color (Jeskai Prowess): One common upgrade path is to splash white to go Jeskai. Why white? White offers some sideboard tools and powerful spells. For instance, Mentor of the Meek or Seeker of the Way style cards (though Seeker is an older card – lifelink prowess effectively). In current Standard, one huge draw is Expressive Iteration – except that’s banned in older formats, but in Standard maybe it’s not present anyway (since it was in Strixhaven, rotated or banned?). Another card might be Clarion Spirit (makes flying tokens when you double-spell – somewhat redundant with our game plan though). More relevantly, white splash gives access to sideboard cards like Burn Down the House or Temporary Lockdown if you needed mass removal (though we usually don’t want that) or Protective Spells** like [c]Lauren’s Escape (one mana give hexproof, indestructible to a creature – nice vs removal heavy decks). It also could let you play Azorius Charm type cards if any exist (like draw or lifelink something). Honestly, the deck doesn’t gain a ton from white main deck except perhaps Lurrus of the Dream-Den in older formats (not Standard legal). However, some Jeskai builds run Oculus Whelp (I saw “Jeskai Oculus” in meta lists – that might refer to Oculus of the Inspired or something? If there’s a strong white or multicolor card named Oculus). Possibly they utilize Ojer Taq, Deepdweller or some white creature with prowess or double-spell synergy. If you do splash, the mana gets more expensive (you’d need Jeskai tri-lands or more duals), so it’s not strictly an “upgrade” unless the cards payoff big.
Alternative Win-Cons: If you want a surprise finisher, you could try a couple copies of Crackle with Power or a big spell like that as a one-of finisher. Crackle (5 mana minimum, deals 5 to X targets) could close a game where combat can’t. But 5 mana is a lot – probably not worth diluting the lean game plan. Some players consider a transformative sideboard plan – like boarding into a slower controlling build with Hullbreaker Horror or Arcane Bombardment. But that might be overkill and off-theme.
Increasing Resilience: If you find yourself against a lot of removal or grind, one could consider The One Ring (if it were in Standard, which it’s not – but fun thought for other formats) or Bitter Reunion type cards (to give haste and cycle, but we already have haste mostly). For Standard specifically, maybe adding an extra Ral, Crackling Wit main deck if you expect slower meta – giving you more oomph in long games. Or even Chandra, Dressed to Kill (from VOW, a red planeswalker that adds mana and can ping damage/draw – she could be an interesting include for card advantage and reach). Chandra is mythic and might be pricey, but is an upgrade that some red decks use. She’s not as synergy with prowess except she’s an extra noncreature spell per turn that deals damage.
Higher-Cost Bombs: It’s a bit counter-intuitive to play anything above 3 mana in this deck, but if you wanted to, one card to consider is Arc Lightning Phoenix (if any phoenix is around that recurs when you cast 3 spells in a turn, akin to Arclight Phoenix in older times – not sure if Standard has one right now. It had Phoenix of Ash in Theros Beyond but that’s rotated). If none, skip. Or Manaform Hellkite (4 mana 4/4 dragon that makes tokens for spells – was in Crimson Vow, could be a top-end threat if meta allows). These are more side-grade than upgrade, though.
Upgrading Removal: If you can find room, Fateful Absence (1W kill creature or planeswalker) could be a splash upgrade for removal versatility. Or Leyline Binding if you went into additional colors for a universal answer (but then you need domain mana – probably not ideal here). Honestly, our removal suite is efficient already with Torch, Abrade, Salvo. Those cover a lot of bases. The only “bigger” removal I’d consider is maybe a copy of Breath of Inferno or some mass damage if tokens are an issue.

Big Meta Calls: If the meta shifts and some card becomes problematic (say a 7-toughness creature or a combo), you adjust accordingly. For example, if there’s a planeswalker heavy meta, maybe main deck a Spell Pierce or Negate. If graveyard became relevant, maybe Roast//Toast or something. Upgrades can also mean having a more flexible sideboard: you could add an extra Negate or Supreme Will to catch noncreature spells if control is prevalent. Or Rending Flame as a removal that also deals planeswalker damage (I think Rebel Salvo covers that already well).
Foil Bling! – If money isn’t an issue, pimp it out! Get those alternate art Monastery Swiftspear promos, the foil etched Cori-Steel Cutter, etc. While not a power level upgrade, showing up with a fully foiled deck does add +10 intimidation factor. (Kidding… mostly).
In a broader sense, one “upgrade path” is that this Standard Izzet Prowess deck has a lot of overlap with Pioneer and even Modern prowess/arclight decks. Cards like Monastery Swiftspear, Sprite Dragon, Ledger Shredder, Opt, etc., are played in older formats. So investing in those pieces can pay off if you want to transition to those formats later. For instance, adding Arclight Phoenixes and Treasure Cruise could turn this into a Pioneer Izzet Phoenix deck. Or adding Lightning Bolt and Manamorphose plus Soul-Scar Mage can make it Modern-worthy. Thus, an “upgrade” might be looking at those formats and seeing if you can port the core over and what you’d need. If you’re strictly Standard-focused though, Izzet Prowess is already near the top of the power curve; there’s not some mythic $50 card that automatically makes it way better. It’s more about tuning to the meta and refining play.
One powerful mythic I will mention: Sheoldred, the Apocalypse herself. Hear me out – no, we’re not going to splash black in our aggressive spellslinging deck… normally. But there is a world where someone might brew a Grixis Prowess that uses Sheoldred as a curve-top to punish opposing draw spells and stabilize your life while you continue to cast cheap spells (which trigger her lifegain). It’s not traditional and likely worse than sticking to UR, but if you just love Sheoldred and have them, it could be a fun twist. You’d need to alter mana a lot though.
Recommended Upgrades (tl;dr): The first things I’d add if budget allows:
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Full playset of Cori-Steel Cutter (if you haven’t already – it’s that good, and the deck really sings with all 4 copies available).
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Full playset of Stormchaser’s Talent (again, engine piece, worth it).
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Ledger Shredders as extra threat (especially if Drake Hatcher is inaccessible, Shredder will carry games by growing huge).
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The best lands you can get your hands on: Spirebluff Canals and Stormcarved Coasts for speed, maybe the new Mystic Duals from Tarkir set if any (e.g., some lands come in untapped if you reveal a spell, etc. – keep an eye on new sets).
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Expressive Iteration (if it ever becomes legal/unbanned again in Standard – one of the strongest card draw spells for UR tempo, and an auto-include upgrade if available).
Finally, consider upgrading your sideboard as needed:
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If a certain combo deck arises, slot in a couple of Negates or Duress (if splash black) to hate it out.
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If graveyard decks pop up, Unlicensed Hearse or Lithomantic Barrage (for specifically Esper legends maybe).
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If lifegain or fog effects become common, Leyline of Punishment (not Standard-legal, just example) or more Sunspine Lynxes.
The great thing is the core concept remains – no matter what fancy cards you add, you’re still playing a sleek, explosive strategy that rewards both good deckbuilding and tight gameplay. Make the upgrades that suit your meta and playstyle, and you’ll keep opponents on their toes. And never forget: sometimes the best “upgrade” is simply mastering the deck. Knowing when to hold that Spell Pierce or how to sequence triple spells in one turn is priceless and can win you games even more than a pricey mythic might. So invest in practice, too!
Conclusion
Izzet Prowess is a deck that scales well with both budget and skill. You can start fairly inexpensive, have a blast, and then gradually enhance it with key pieces (most of which also happen to be great investments for broader Magic play). Whether you stick to this exact 75 or tweak it with new cards and foils, the core idea of turning cheap spells into big damage will always be a thrill. Happy upgrading, and may your topdecks be ever in your favor!